Brief Religious Profile
The inhabitants of Curva del Río are almost exclusively christian, though there are a few different sects represented by three major churches. The predominant affiliation in the neighborhoods of Lado Oeste and Ladera were with the evangelical church which called itself "Iglesia del Evangelio Doctrinal". In Ladera there was a total of one (1) Catholic.
In the more urban central neighborhoods of Curva del Río, there was a greater of diversity of religious affiliation with churches representing the evangelicals, Jehovah's Witnesses and one church representing "Iglesia de la Luz del Mundo" (shortened name). You might recognize the latter church from the news as their leader was arrested in California in 2019. Various other churches exist in neighboring communities such as Seventh Day Adventist, Methodist, or Iglesia del Evangelio Completo.
The Atheist
The night after our trip to Río Alto, my host family and I had been conversing about the ancient indigenous empires in what is today Latin America. I recall recounting the tale of the founding of Tenochtitlan, the capital of the Aztec Empire. The Mexica people (a tribe of Nahuatl speakers) had been wandering the land at the behest of their Gods in search of a place to establish their capital. They would know the place by a prophetic sign: An eagle would be eating a serpent while perched on a cactus growing out of a rock. The sign was said to have been discovered on an island in Lake Texcoco and the city would be Tenochtitlan.
During the discussion we could hear the hymns coming from their church. I asked if they were supposed to go, to which they replied they didn't feel like going. But on the matter of the church they asked me a question: "A que iglesia perteneces?"
"Ninguna. No soy cristiano." At this point I was wondering how truthful I should be. This can be a sensitive subject.
"Entonces, a qué religion perteneces?"
"No soy religioso..." I started to think perhaps I could be entirely truthful. At least with them. After all, they ditched church this night so they're likely not fanatics. And besides, the people in this province aren't as conservative as elsewhere. So the moment of truth came with the next question.
"Pero crees en dios?"
"No..."
Silence ensued. I think I messed up. Clearly misread the situation.
I started to backtrack. "Bueno, no es decir que creo que no hay un dios, ciertamente creo que podría ser una posibilidad..."
"Pero no crees que hay un dios creador que vela por el mundo?"
"No." I finally settled.
"Por qué?" Juliana asked.
Well I won't rehash the whole discussion but it wasn't long and they ultimately accepted the situation for the time being as they pondered how my non-belief could be possible. Come the morning they thought they found the answer.
"Has oído de Jesús?" Cutilio asked "el que murió para salvarnos a todos?"
"Jesús Cristo? Claro que sí." I responded.
Now they were stumped. Before it would have been understandable that I didn't believe because clearly, I hadn't heard the good news.
In the days that would follow José, patriarch and preacher, would recount to me stories of the Old Testament. I remember one woman in the community who mentioned God by chance made sure to reinforce that he exists and watches over us all.
Other than commentary, heightened suspicion, and fear for my soul, my atheism was not detrimental to my work. From time to time I would make an appearance at the church which was more than tolerated as it "es bueno escuchar la palabra de Dios." Though word of mouth tends to travel rapidly, the people of Lado Oeste kept this information to themselves. This worked to my benefit for a few months before I ended up having a discussion about my lack of faith with a family in Ladera. At that point, word of mouth travelled rapidly and a few made sure that I heard their negative reactions.
In conservative communities, volunteers have found people unwilling to work with them until they prove themselves good Christians by attending church regularly. I was lucky that at the very least, the people of my assigned communities tolerated my lack of belief. The episode did remind me to choose my battles carefully though.
Biblically-Justified Homophobia
Homophobia is rampant in Panama and is often justified along biblical lines. In Panama City, attitudes are shifting and gay pride parades are held annually with thousands of attendants (compared to around a few hundred during the first parade in 2005).
But out in the campo, discrimination would be rampant if people didn't hide their identities. Often quoted is Leviticus 20:13 with particular emphasis on the "abomination" part. Fortunately, conversations on the subject were generally scant and there were two situations in my 7 months of service where I found myself in the conversation. The second time I was able to just "disagree" and leave the conversation in the busy context at the time.
The first time however I purposely got involved with the conversation. One person, who I shall not name, was discussing with another his displeasure with the homosexual community. He then advocated that Panama should become more like Brazil by assaulting and even killing those who are or appear to be gay. I had to join the conversation to oppose such blatant displays of hate.
"Asesinar gente, por estar gay, en serio?"
"La biblia dice que son una abominación. Y ahora quieren adoptar niños! Luego esos niños van a crecer y ser gay. No es natural."
"Tenía un amigo, criada por dos mamás y el todovía es heterosexual."
"Pero tu no sabes, tal vez el tiene su esposa y niños pero en secreto el va con hombres..." He paused to consider his next argument. "Eres gay? Por qué los defiendes?"
This was a delicate situation. The conversation had attracted additional attention. To some, I could foresee the pieces starting to click. That if his accusation was true, if I was gay, then it would make sense that I would hate God, because God hates gays. Indeed, such a label would seriously damage my reputation. Fortunately, the burden of proof is quite high as people like to believe "gays don't exist here". I also like to think that given the severe ostracism that comes with such a verdict, people were less willing to pass such a heavy judgement.
"No, pero hablo porque ellos son humanos y no deben ser matados."
An onlooker chimed in, "Es que aquí, [los homosexuales] nos da pena."
"Sí, entiendo. Y también, puedo ser seguro si mi amigo es gay porque si lo fuera, no es necasario que el esconde."
My homophobic debate partner agreed, "es cierto que aquí, necesitan esconder."
I wrapped up with the following, "También es bien conocido donde vengo que usualmente, la gente más homofobico son ellos que son secretamente homosexual. A los demás no les importa tanto cómo otras personas viven sus vidas."
Considering this phrase he ended with "Ah sí, no me importa."
In the end, I doubt I changed any minds.
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