The region is located in a reserve, but the regulations are ambiguous. Technically, all hunting, timbering, and agriculture are prohibited. But since people were living here since before the establishment of the reserve, certain compromises have been met. Trees can be felled for personal construction, the low-intensity agriculture currently practiced is tolerated, and hunting rules are not enforced. Adding to the ambiguity is the fact that dams in some reserves have been approved despite significantly altering their environment.
Map of Reserves in Northwest Panama.
Map Credit: Ministerio de Ambiente
Fruits
The staple is, of course, bananas. There are various types but I never got to learn the difference and names between them. What we would consider "normal" bananas (though I'm not sure if they're Cavendish-variety), are usually peeled green and then boiled. This is standard buchu. For some reason, mashing the bananas and rolling it into masa after cooking them makes it more palatable. While these bananas do ripen and can be eaten as we are used to, this is unpopular with the gente. It's easy to assume that they eat them green due to food realities, but the truth is they genuinely dislike eating the ripe yellow bananas. In terms of nutrition though, eating them green is the wise move as various proteins and nutrients break down into sugar during the ripening process.
However, there is a breed of bananas known as "manzanilla". These are smaller in size but very sweet. There's a vague taste similar to that of whip cream. This is the only exception where people will eat the banana ripe. Often it is used to make michilá, which is described later below.
A Bunch of Manzanilla
Plantains are available as well. These are the preferred fruits for frying into patacones as they are sweeter and larger.
Oranges and lemons: Available seasonally compared to bananas which are year-round. A good source of vitamin C, but not a common part of the standard diet. Oranges have their juices sucked dry (rather than just eaten), and the lemons are used to make chicha de limón.
Pineapple: Very rare, I've only seen a few plants around. With the exception of a community east of Ladera, most people don't bother with them.
Coffee: I've seen one or two coffee trees, likely because cacao is predominant in the region.
Coconut: Orange coconut is consumed for its water, often after a day of working with the machete in the field, which can provide some much needed hydration and electrolyte replenishment. I was gifted a sapling to plant near my rented house. When I asked how long it would be before the tree bore fruit, I was told five years >_>.
Orange Coconut, Ready to Drink
The brown coconut on the other hand is consumed for its meat. More accurately, it is used to create coconut oil, as well as to make Johnny Cakes.
What about mangoes? Well the trees grow here. Believe me, I identified them. However I was told that while the trees grow, the fruits don't. Woe is me.
Cacao: The cash crop of the region (if you don't include bananas). Each pod contains seeds arranged in a cob-like manner. Each of the seeds are surrounded by a fleshy fruit that gives off a floral smell and which has a starburst-like flavor. The seeds are what is processed to make chocolate.
Esteban Shows Off One of His Cacao Trees
Vegetables
Tubers are the dominant vegetables produced. Principal among them is yuca (cassava) which is grown year-round. Others are ñame (yam), ñampí rojo/blanco (red/white taro), and dachín/otoé (another type of taro).
Grains
In smaller quantities (relative to other crops) rice and corn are grown. The corn is used more as a delicacy, where fresh corn (maíz nuevo) is used to make "tortillas del campo". Lately, birds tend to get to the corn first. It is speculated that birds have run low on traditional food sources causing them to attack the crops as it had not been a problem previously, even as it was grown in greater abundance. A college student with family in Curva del Río studying Watershed & Agricultural Engineering had asked me to help with an experimental plot where he was planting corn. A couple of months later, he invited me back for harvest, giving me a good (and rather excessive) portion of the corn which I brought back for my host family.
Rice harvested from the fields is eaten as normal compared to store-bought rice, except it's supposed to taste a little better. However, it takes a lot of work to prepare the rice, and harvesting it is no picnic either. One day, I was invited up with the rest of the community of Lado Oeste to help harvest a plot of rice. The two methods of harvest consist of either pulling the rice off the sprig, or collecting the sprig rice and all. The former method takes longer, but the latter merely delays work. I opted for the former and during the course of the harvest the community thought I was pathetically slow, as they opt for the sprig-harvest method. They thought I was so slow in fact, that they secretly had me competing with one of the kids to see who would bring in the greater yield. At the end of the harvest, I presented my yield and everyone marveled at the sprig-less collection of rice. My harvest sack wasn't even half full, but given there were no sprigs taking up volume, I was declared the winner. It's hard to relish a victory against an 8-year old though.
Carrying Rice Back From the Finca
Each grain of rice is light, but they all add up. If you weren't deterred hauling 20 or so pounds of rice down the mountain via slippery trails, then the next steps still need getting done. First, since most people opt for the sprig-harvest method the sacks of rice need to be bludgeoned repeatedly to knock the rice off the sprigs. The loose rice, still encased in a shell, then has to be toasted to loosen said shell. Finally, the toasted rice needs to be taken to the pilar to be pilar'd. Basically, you put all the rice in a pillar-shaped container and repeatedly drive a small log into it to de-shell the rice. This takes time, muscle and blistered hands. Afterwards, the shell-bits need to be sifted out. Still not done. Last is a final check through the rice to remove any rice grains still encapsulated in a shell. After that, just cook the rice like normal. EZ.
The Fruit That Was
Pifá (peach palm) is a starchy fruit borne by one of the various coconut species (Bactris gasipaes). It was common and well enjoyed in the Bocas del Toro region until a few years ago. A fungal borne disease that came from Costa Rica started afflicting and killing the flowers of the pifá. As a result, the trees have borne no fruit and the once widely enjoyed chicha de pifá can no longer be crafted. However, the tree can be chopped down and the top harvested for the cogollo de pifá (heart of palm).
Foraged
Kalalu is a particular species of fern that grows wild in the hills. There are ferns that look similar, but they are bitter and inedible. There's another edible type of kalalu which grows by the river, though I've never set eyes on it. Mountain kalalu tastes and has the texture of asparagus. The river variety however is more like a spinach.
Culantro - Not quite wild, but it grows uncontrolled throughout the community clearing. They are harvested on an ad-hoc basis for cooking.
Naranjillo (Solanum quitoense) - A wild fruit that looks like a tomato. Two bushes just happened to grow by my rented house but I was evacuated just as the fruits were ready. The people of Lado Oeste apparently use the fruits to make a juice of sorts.
Products of Produce
Michilá - A chunky drink made of either manzanilla or plantains which may or may not have added sugars depending on the fruit used and the tastes of the creator. Sometimes it has coconut added to it for good measure. Often served hot. My site neighbor Sean once remarked that his first reaction was one of utter disgust. Had he "been in any other context" that would be his final opinion. But after having become accustomed to it, it became one of his favorite comforts. Especially during the rain when things get "cold", but you have this warm mushy drink. Mmm...
Pinolillo - A solution of cornmeal and cacao which is sweetened with sugar. Quite good with a pleasant aftertaste.
Johnny Cakes (pronounced "yäni ké") - A flatbread consisting of flour mixed with grated coconut meat. In Lado Oeste they are baked weekly, or bi-weekly, or maybe it was once a month? Can't remember. Regardless, Johnny Cakes are sold in order to raise money for the church. Regionally, Johnny Cakes are a popular means of fundraising and vendors in cities such as Changuinola can be found selling them (coconut not guaranteed).
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